The Stone Villages of Pelion: A Journey Through the Alleys

If the sea is the face of Pelion, the villages are its heart. Scattered across the mountain slopes, built stone upon stone with tiled roofs and balconies that hang over the horizon — they look as if they haven't moved in two hundred years. We've gathered five villages worth stepping into an alley of, and letting time stop.

Makrinitsa — "The Balcony of Pelion"

The most famous village in Pelion, and rightly so. Makrinitsa leans on a steep slope above Volos, and every corner looks out over the Pagasetic Gulf. There's no car traffic in the heart of the village — only paved stone alleys, ancient fountains and traditional mansions. Sit in the main square under the plane trees, order a coffee, and let the view do the rest.

• Distance from the house: only about 20 minutes' drive.
• Tip: Vehicle access is restricted — park at the village entrance and continue on foot; that's how you see it at its best.

Portaria — green and full of springs

A neighbour of Makrinitsa, higher and fresher, surrounded by chestnut trees and flowing springs. Portaria is a winning blend of village atmosphere and quality tavernas, and it's an excellent base for setting out on mountain trails.

• Distance from the house: about 25 minutes' drive.
• Tip: Look for the small waterfall on the edge of the village — a cool, quiet corner on summer days.

Vyzitsa — the village that stopped in time

Perhaps the most picturesque village in southern Pelion. Paved alleys wind between 18th-century stone mansions, stone arches and carved gates. Vyzitsa is small and quiet, and that's exactly its charm — the feeling that you've stepped into a fairytale.

• Distance from the house: about 40 minutes' drive.
• Tip: Combine it with a visit to the neighbouring village of Pinakates — another little stone gem.

Tsagarada — among the giant plane trees

A green village spread across four neighbourhoods, shaded by chestnut trees and orchards. In Agia Paraskevi square stands an ancient plane tree of enormous girth — said to be around a thousand years old. From here it's especially close to the beautiful beaches of the east coast.

• Distance from the house: about an hour's drive.
• Tip: Make a full day of it — a village in the morning, Mylopotamos or Damouchari beach in the afternoon.

Milies — the end of the steam-train line

Milies is the final stop of the "Moutzouris", Pelion's historic steam train that climbs between stone bridges and mountain views. The village itself is rich with vineyards, tavernas and a beautiful church, and the ride there on the old train is an experience in itself — especially with children.

• Distance from the house: about 30 minutes' drive to the Ano Lechonia station.
• Tip: The train runs mainly on weekends and in season — check the times in advance and arrive early.

A few words to finish

You can see one village and fall in love, or link several into a day's route. The beauty is that they're all close — a few minutes from one another, and all a short drive from the Stone House in Volos. Head out in the morning to the mountain, wander an alley, eat on a balcony above the sea, and return to the city for sunset. That's exactly the kind of day that makes people want another one just like it.

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